After a couple of weeks I have to admit I was beginning to feel a bit underwhelmed by Malaysia, photographically speaking. Compared to Vietnam, this time last year. Now George Town, and it’s a bit like the old saw about buses – you wait ages, then they all come in a rush.
First off, yesterday evening, when we took a stroll to see some of George Town’s famous street art…
Then down to the jetty – a wonderful old construction of what look like 2″ planks of teak or similar, stretching out over the sea and bearing a ramshackle collection of dwellings and shopfronts and one or two restaurants – where we perched on the edge and watched the sun go down…
Then up with the lark – or some of the tardier larks – to go on a bit of proper grockling, visiting a temple in Chinatown…
…before heading off to Khoo Kangsi – a large and incredibly ornate clan house, absolutely covered – and filled – with the most extraordinary, ornate and beautiful ornamentation. The skill and time invested is breathtaking, the overall effect almost overwhelming. They don’t stint on the gold. But there’s also no end of exquisite, intricate carving, painting and brightly coloured decoration. Everywhere you look you can look closer and find more detail, more humour, more narrative.
Apparently such clan houses are a way for families from particular parts of China to maintain their ties and their heritage after moving to different lands. If this one is anything to go by, they have much to take pride in.
Oh, I’ve just remembered: this morning we walked down to the sea front, thinking to have a coffee and a juice, but when we got there we found all the stalls closed. Sitting at the front looking out over the sea, a complete stranger, without ceremony or comment, placed two little cartons of strawberry milk on the table in front of us before heading back to his own table without pausing for acknowledgment or thanks. The second act of random kindness while we’ve been here – a few days ago we tried to settle up for breakfast only to be told that somebody else had already paid. We’re both feeling slightly abashed, and that karma demands we be similarly nice to someone else before too long.
After our siesta we plan to visit the local mosque, which apparently does excellent short guided tours, introducing visitors, among other things, to Moslem history and culture. By all accounts one watchword is simplicity. Maybe my phone will get a bit of a rest…