Some places are more accessible than others

Koh Rong Sanloem island, Cambodia

This is one of the others.

We are in a proper exclusive resort tonight. Exclusive not by price or prestige, but because getting to the place demands a one mile plus schlep across the middle of an island, including the section in the pic – 10-15 minutes of rock-strewn descent which would defeat all but the fit and stout of heart.

You really do get the feeling you’ve lucked into a brief window of opportunity. Even five years ago I’m sure this place wouldn’t have existed – and if it had, you wouldn’t have been able to get to it. The route here was mostly on brutal dirt-track roads carved through the rainforest by companies beginning to develop this beautiful island. Give it another five years and it’ll be covered over with five star resorts.

But just for now, if you’re up for the haul, you arrive at a little clearing in the jungle, right on the beach, with a couple of dozen little bungalows. Ours is wood, with steps up to a verandah area looking out to the sea, maybe 30 metres away, a reed roof, a large and comfortable bed taking up most of the interior, and…well, that’s it. There is a light, which runs off solar power, and I’m guessing runs out of stored juice at some point in the evening. Two minutes walk takes you to a central restaurant/bar, where you can get basic Cambodian food, beers and cocktails. And that’s that. Apparently there’s a place further up the beach where you can get western food. We may try it. We’re here for a week, and there’s not a lot by way of distractions or entertainment. This is hard core chill country. Which, after Angkor Wat and the delights of Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville, works for us.

You’ll never guess what this place is called…

Sunset beach. Whodathunk it.

Oh, and as you’ll have gathered, there is wi-fi after all! Huzzah!

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